Less well known is the Nakasendo, which began and ended at the same two points of power in feudal Japan, but followed a different path, winding through the mountainous interior. Like the Tokaido, most of it has either been modernised or obliterated. Some sections however are well preserved. The stretch between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, crossing the border of Gifu and Nagano, is probably the most famous.

In the latter quarter of the last century, residents of the two former post towns (stopping places on the road) got together to fight both progress and apathy, and restored the area to its former appearance. They did a splendid job. Although modernity creeps in, and the architectural free-for-all that blights all Japanese towns is never more than a street or two away, enclaves of Edo era beauty have been created, catering now for the tourist trade rather than passing travellers with business in the big cities.

Although the crowds and the numerous car parks and coach tours testify otherwise, traditional houses, shops and streets aren’t the only draw. For those, like myself, who enjoy their nature wild yet peaceful, the 8km walk between the two towns holds more attraction, and more pleasing photo opportunities.

The train from Nagoya took us to Nakatsugawa where we caught a tourist-friendly bus to Magome. From the west this is the easiest way if you don’t have access to a car or intend walking. The stretch of Nakasendo here reaches an elevation of 800m. Starting at Magome makes the walk a little easier, as Magome sits higher than Tsumago. From the bus stop follow the human chain back and left, up through the perfectly preserved streets.

The route is well signposted in English, Japanese and Korean, and walking on the stone surface is a pleasure made all the more obvious by the few sections of tarmac that jarred my knees and destroyed my samurai daydreams. This is the Japan of the photos, of the prints, of Kurosawa and Basho. Tall bamboo forests, terraced rice fields, carp ponds and wooden waterwheels vie for space on your memory card. Clouds drift through the patchwork green mountains towering on all sides. There was a light drizzle on the day we were there, and so we had the world to ourselves.

A little over halfway, two waterfalls of the clearest water cascade. This spot is a touch busier, as those who drive from one town to the next stop off here to check the falls off their ‘to do’ lists. There are benches and the thundering water has opened the area out, making it a decent place to take a break.

Of the two towns, Magome is more picture-esque, benefiting from its elevated position and lack of space in which to sprawl. There is more in Tsumago, making it a better destination should you be tiring and in need of refreshment. Lining this lively stretch of the road are shops, restaurants, museums, a post office and a tourist information office. There are also much more people, a factor that contributed heavily to our decision to continue through the town and out the other side. When you reach Tsumago is it possible to take a bus or taxi back to Magome, or to either Nagiso or Nakatsugawa stations. It’s even possible to turn around and walk back, should you have the energy. We were still in the mood for movement and not for other people, so the 3.5km walk to Nagiso station was agreed upon without a word. The route winds on in much the same rustic vein as before but, since few tourists come this way, the signage drops off, though not enough to induce confusion.

From Nagiso the local train returns you to Nakatsugawa from where, for better or for worse, you are once more in contact with 21^st century Japan.

It’s me Akie, your favorite Akita Bijin, and I’m coming to you from the ever-popular Samurai District in Kakunodate Akita, an old castle outpost town dating back to 1620.  As Spring carries on to Summer, which will carry on to Fall, I’ll show you what lies under all the snow we get every winter.
I won’t speak to long though because, to be quite frank I think this samurai outfit is a little tight around my…you know where. Not really made for us ladies.  That said, even women were considered samurai of sorts, here in those days and often carried daggers hidden within the wraps of their kimonos and yukattas in order to protect themselves against violators. Yikes!  So, do you like my outfit?  Even though it isn’t so comfortable, it is pretty cool, isn’t it?

Some of the houses in this quaint little town are much the same as they were hundreds of years ago and in many cases they are both comfortable, pretty, and most of all, built to last long. You should check out the Ishiguro House because you might catch a peak at the family.  They still live in the same house as their ancestors.  And considering most of these houses go back to the Edo period, that is a long time to be living in the same home…hard to believe, isn’t it?

In total, Kakunodate town is home to 6 remnant samurai houses – Aoyagi, Ishiguro, Odano, Kawarada, Iwahashi, and Matsumoto.  You have to pay a small fee to get into the first two, but it is well worth it, really! And don’t worry about these homes falling down on you. They were really built to last. Be careful though not to bump your head on the low ceilings especially in the stairways. The other houses are free to visit but unfortunately you can’t enter them. You’ll just have to hangout in the great gardens and admire the beauty from the outside.  Not a bad option considering the gardens are really nice and the area is surrounded by really cool Weeping Cherry trees.  During Cherry Blossom season, Kakunodate is one probably one of the most crowded places in all of Japan.  I think the town population doubles or triples.  Seeing all the people that come to this town is an attraction in itself.

At one point in its history Kakunodate had some 80 samurai families living in it.  If you like the samurai folklore this is the place to be.

Oh, I almost forgot the museums.  The samurai houses are like museums in themselves, but there are also the Omura and Denshokan museums.  They display the arts and crafts history that is also such an important feature of Kakunodate.  From the glass sculptures of the Omura to the cherry bark furniture and arts of the Denshokan, each has a lot to offer. Great omiyage (souvenirs) too!

While in Kakunodate check out the local restaurants too.  If you want a taste of traditional Northern Tohoku cuisine stop in at most any local eatery and feast.  I will say, these places are really local, and sometimes if you arrive too late in the evening some things on the menu might be gone.  As the clich・goes, the early bird does get the worm, right?  In that case I recommend trying to find some kiritampo (mashed rice shaped like a rod, and cooked on a stick). It’s so yummy!

You know, this time of the year Kakunodate is a packed house, but still there is this feeling of peacefulness, and a sense for what Japan was like centuries ago. NHK has shot dramas up here using the houses as backdrops along with a few commercials as well. I love it. Maybe they’ll let me be a samurai warrior on TV someday!  Despite all the people taking pictures, you can truly experience the samurai spirit of this town.  It really is Japan unchanged.  Occasionally you can even catch a ride in one of these things over my shoulder.  I’ve even witnessed a recently married couple welcoming their new life together in one of these rickshaws.  Must be fun!

Anyway, I think I’ve talked longer than I had intended.  Hope I didn’t take away all the mystery to this place.  I like to wet your appetite instead of serving the whole meal. Do come up and check out the entire menu. Maybe you’ll see me or some of my Bijin sisters here too. The samurai spirit is really beautiful you know and I know you’ll love what Kakunodate has to offer.

Until next time…tanoshinde (have fun)!!!!!