A Doze of Foliage and Several Mishaps
September and October marked the start of some leaves turning to yellow to red in Japan, which is also known as foliage or kouyou or momiji (紅葉) in Japanese. Foliage viewing in Japanese is called momijigari (紅葉狩り). Foliage debuts as early as late September from the mountains of Hokkaido down to the hills of Kyoto and the western part of Japan until early December. As a tropical-dwelling individual, this season is a must to enjoy as we do not have this one in the Philippines. I have always been captivated by the pictures that I only see in the Internet about pictures of foliage. This time, it has become a somewhat dream-come-true.
Travel Mishaps in Going to Nikko
Last month we headed for Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture. Perhaps this place is one of the most popular place for foliage viewing in Kanto Region. Days before, I planned the routes as we are just going to go there on a local train starting off from our hacienda in North Saitama. Indeed, numerous traveling mishaps occurred. First, our supposed to be “first trip” which was scheduled was actually a “special rapid train,” and would cost us more than the usual if we embark on it. So we opted for the next scheduled train to arrive which was about five minutes after. Thus, choosing this schedule had us running for our next train in Tobu-Dobutsukoen station within a minute. We rushed to the other platform as we saw the train approaching. To our stupidity for carelessly not looking at the schedule and the exact platform number, we rode the wrong train. In fact, it was going back to our home station. Arrrgghhh…. So we have no choice but to wait for the next train. Our target time was again delayed for thirty minutes. Then finally our train arrived and we were able to change trains successfully without any glitch in Tobu-Dobutsukoen. We rode the rapid train bound for Nikko. While inside the train for almost an hour, we slept and felt confident that the train will bring us directly to Nikko station. To our surprise it did not. Here’s the catch. The train’s last two coaches will be the only coaches that are bound for Nikko while the first six coaches will go to Kinugawa-Onsen. Actually we were in the second coach. And the next thing we noticed was that we were the only ones inside the coach. After confirming the route, indeed we made a terrible mistake. Arrrrgghhhh again…. So we had to get of in Daiyamukou Station (大谷向) and wait for the next train to go back to Shimoimaichi Station (下今市). Shimoimaichi station is where the train separates and the junction for both Nikko and Kinugawa bound trains. After getting off, we checked the schedule in the station. Gosh! The next train will arrive after 50 minutes. So what we did was get out of that station and walked around twenty minutes going back to Shimoimaichi. So we were like lost backpackers in the middle of the jungle walking around the lonely and empty fields of Daiyamuko town. One surprising part of this experience was that there was no train attendant in that station. My God… If we just knew it, we could have bought 130 yen tickets and got off that station. After the trek, we finally arrived in Shimoimaichi. It was indeed shameful to explain why our Suica and Pasmo cards did not work. Well I just told the attendant that we overslept and missed Shimoimaichi. And there we got in and waited for the train. By that time, we actually have never realized that only the last two coaches will be heading for Nikko. Carelessly waiting, we waited on the wrong side of the platform. By the time the train arrived and passengers disembarked, there was a commotion. We were actually clueless and surprised why the heck people are running at the end wherein there is no exit. To my amazement, the last two coaches were the only train bound for Nikko. And they cut the train! Literally separating the Kinugawa-Onsen from the Nikko bound trains. Oh my God! All people who rode the first six coaches squeezed their way in the last two coaches. Including us! It felt like I rode the Yamanote and Chuo Lines again on a rush hour. We had no choice but to endure the crowded train. Anyway, it only took around 15 minutes to reach Nikko.
Finally at Nikko
It was already past 9AM when we arrived. We hurriedly went straight to Tobu ticket area to buy our bus pass that day. The problem was that the person I am talking with insisted that we can pay inside the bus as I was insisting we needed a pass. To our confusion, we went to the bus station directly. Confused as I am sure that there was a pass, we went back again to the ticket station and searched for that brochure which shows the pass rates. There, I grabbed one and showed it to the train attendant. Beside me was another foreigner who spoke in English and the attendant also talked to him in English semi-fluently. Arrrrggghhh… To my disappointment, I talked to him in a loud voice in English saying “I said to you a while ago that I need these tickets.” And then he kept silent and gave us the tickets. The 2-day pass until Sanbonmatsu Station is at 2,600 yen. There, another ten minutes was lost in that confusion. We ran towards the Yumoto Onsen (湯元温泉) bound bus and queued. Another disappointment was in line. According to the notice, the whole travel would take the maximum of three hours because of the traffic. Arrrggghhhh.. No choice.
Senjogahara Plateau
Jump!
Ernest decided that we should just go directly to Senjogahara since he has been there last year and that the view of the plateau was nice. So we figured out to get off at Sanbonmatsu Station, as our pass is only up to that station. Along the way, traffic sucked. But the entire surrounding was breathtaking. We passed by roads of psychedelic-colored trees and leaves. The long winding road was actually called “Romantic Highway.” Indeed colorfully romantic. Shades of red, yellow, and orange captivate your eyes as we battled for the heavy traffic. Along the way, we passed by Akechidaira Ropeway. The view of the gorge was too awesome. Actually, that ropeway was supposed to be on our list but because of the delays, we skipped it. Also, that area was the reason why it was so traffic. Everyone on cars just wanted to go there. Finally, getting off at.Sanbonmatsu, we ate first before we head for our purpose. One of Nikko’s meibutsu (名物) or specialty is Yuba Ramen. Yuba is rolled thin tofu skin. It tasted good and the soup gave us the energy we needed for our marathon.
Senjogahara is a barren plateau filled with dried grass, birch and conifer-like trees. The scene resembled that of NGC’s savannah wilderness. The only lacking thing would probably herds of wildebeests and lions. A majestic color of arid cold environment and the spectacular display of yellow leaves thrilled every single shot coming from my camera. The “ojisans” also displayed with pride their telephoto lenses and tripod as they take pictures beneath the wilderness of the valley. An up-close feel of the real birch tree that scattered within the observation platform made this experience more interesting. The trunk of the birch tree was a bit chalky and some of its skin already peeled off maybe because of the intense cold.
Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Waterfalls
Wasting no time, we waited for the bus bound for Lake Chuzenji around 120PM. Sadly, the traffic made us wait until 230PM before arriving at Lake Chuzenji. Before we could reach Yubinkyokumae Station, we decided to take a walk while taking pictures just for us to save time and breathe the scent of autumn air beside the lake. Numerous water rides for rent can be seen beside the lake. Beneath the lake on the other side of the mountain was another mountain covered with endless foliage of red and orange. Because it was cloudy, it was a bit dim and the foliage was not that as bright as when there is sunlight. Anyway, we just can’t stop taking a lot of pictures here and there as pastels of red and yellow surround the area. The walk lasted for almost an hour with occasional stops. Mt. Nantai was just beside the lake and stretches of trees in red color the mountain. The wind blew colder that day and it almost felt like early winter. After the tiresome walk, we finally reached Kegon Waterfalls as our final stop. From the ridge of the canyon beside the cafeterias, the waterfall can be observed outside without paying any entrance fee. However we went down just to see the waterfall up-close. Entrance fee is at 530 yen where a descent to 100 meters below will take you to the center of the waterfall. Nature has carved the rock walls of the waterfall into a splendor design of architecture similar to that of a stacked chandelier. The sound of flowing water was as relaxing as that of beach waves pound the shores. People take turns to capture their own remembrance of the waterfall. Everything was worth the effort. There are three levels of observation decks. The further you go, the more you can observe the mouth of the gorge. Kegon Waterfalls is very tall standing at 97 meters high and is one of the three tallest waterfalls in Japan. Also, this waterfall is notorious for suicides among young people. Ooops. So far, this is the tallest waterfall I have ever seen.
Concluding our trip was a nice quick dinner and omiyage shopping for our beloved colleagues. By 530PM, traffic suddenly disappeared. Perhaps ETC travelers were rushing towards the expressway by that time. We arrived at the station by 630PM and rode the local train back home. Due to the mishaps, we were not able to visit Shinkyo Bridge, Akechidaira Ropeway and the famous Toshogu Temple, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Anyway, we have been there except the ropeway last year. At least, we have a reason why we should come back again to Nikko next autumn for foliage viewing.
